Tuesday, November 15, 2005
Ashley and Rob, Part II
Ashley and Rob have set a date! Its Saturday, October 7th of next year. Nothing else to report...I'm still working on my Ph.D. qualifying papers, teaching, taking classes and generally working on being fabulous. I'll update again when I have achieved full fab-ness.
Tuesday, November 08, 2005
Update--November
Well, this has been quite an eventful month so far! I've received funding from the American Institute of Indian Studies to do my dissertation research in Darjeeling starting next October. But I'm waiting to go until my sister and Rob get married! This picture was taken (by me) just after Rob proposed this past weekend in Central Park. He called me a few weeks ago and asked me to help. So as we were wandering around New York on Saturday--which had the most perfect weather in a November that I can remember--Rob called my phone. I pretended it was a friend of mine that I hadn't seen in a few years, and had to run to meet her for coffee. I just walked out of sight, camera hidden in my purse, and waited until I saw Rob get down on one knee. Then--pictures! The one above is when Ashley realized that I was in on the whole thing.
I don't think I could be happier or prouder of those two!
Friday, September 30, 2005
Delay
I've had to put the blog on hold for right now--classes are back in session and I'm teaching as well. I'll try to post periodically...but this site is really for when I'm out of the country!
Sunday, June 19, 2005
Darjeeling--Day II
Darjeeling—Day Two
The woman at the front desk showed me on the map where I should be going and I set off to buy a mobile phone. I started walking toward Chowrasta, which is a main square in the town; although technically it is shaped more like an X than a square. Anyway, I started walking down toward where I thought I should go. After about 20 minutes, I was convinced that I was totally lost and had ended up somewhere in China. I had descended about a thousand feet, zigzagging down the hill…once I stopped to look up, I saw my hotel. I was exactly even with my hotel, just much, much lower. I was exhausted, and a bit sweaty, and ready to call a taxi to drive me back up the hill so I could die in my hotel room. However, I decided to give my Nepali language skills a bit of a go, and went inside a store to ask where I could buy mobile phones. Luckily, the man was very nice—although he answered my Nepali question with an English answer, something I’ve had to get used to. He told me that I was, in fact, going the correct direction. I just needed to keep going down the bloody hill (two more zags, to be precise). After sweating my way down another 600 or so feet, I saw a mobile phone store.
I walked in, trying not to gasp and gag for each breath. Anyone who tells you that 7 or 8 thousand feet isn’t that high is a lying bastard and probably wants you dead. Thankfully, the man in the store was more than kind while I gasped and choked out the words, “Me…need…phone.” He smiled and asked me what kind of phone and service I needed. Although my brain was oxygen-deprived, I did manage to purchase a quality, no frills Nokia phone. He showed me one that, had I been just a bit more delirious, I would have purchased—beautiful, swanky, gadget optimized phone. I won’t go into too many details, but the cost was Rs 8500/-, which translates to about USD $200. I said, “Aie! Kasto mahango!” Which is Nepali for, “Holy crap! That’s expensive!” (well, loosely translated). He laughed and asked me if I spoke Nepali. We had a very nice conversation about my research and what I wanted to do in Darjeeling. After, he offered to walk me to the Darjeeling Language Institute, the next stop on my list. I agreed, before realizing two things: (1) Walking me there consisted of him closing the shop, and (2) it was two buildings down, just across the street. I felt like a prize idiot…but it was kind of him anyway.
The Darjeeling Language Institute (from this point forward known as the DLI because I’m too lazy to continue typing the full name) is on the first floor of a hotel. Nice little place. So the phone guy led me inside and, as luck would have it, there was a Nepali class going on at the time. We walked to the classroom and interrupted the class. There was only one student, so I didn’t feel too terrible about it. The teacher asked me to come up and sit down, and the phone guy disappeared. She asked me a few questions—if I knew any Nepali, etc.—and then asked me to talk to the girl in the class so she could assess my “skills”. We did the usual—“What is your name? Where are you from?” As it turns out, she and her husband are from Tennessee (well, she’s originally from Alabama and he’s originally from Texas) and will be living here for another three or four years. It went quickly, and she asked me to come back on Monday to talk about classes and to pay for them. I got the girl’s address, and she said she would stop by the hotel on the way home. She and her husband live fairly close to me, only about 10 minutes away.
I headed out after that to work my way back up the hill. I decided to take the “short cut” straight up the hill—consisting of stairs and two roads that are at about 45 degree angles. I made it, just barely. I was coughing, sweating, and gasping by the time I got to the top. I stumbled into the hotel, got my key, and collapsed in my room. I was convinced that I had pulmonary edema (I was coughing up things and feeling nauseated) and would die right there. I laid on that bed for over an hour and it didn’t improve. So I stayed for another hour. By that point I was sufficiently recovered enough to walk up another hill (not quite so uphill) to the internet place. That too almost killed me, but I survived to walk back down the hill.
As I arrived at the hotel, I saw the woman from class. She was leaving me a note at the desk, so I invited her up for a minute—standing at that point was beyond what was possible. Karen and I sat for a while and chatted. She is a very nice woman, and I am so glad we met! I walked her home so I would know where she lived (another hill). We sat and had tea at her house. Jonathan, her husband, had a sinus infection and so was laying down. She and I ended up talking until after dark. I’d arrived at their house around 5 pm, so that was quite a while. They walked me home (back up another bloody hill), all the while assuring me that the walking thing would get better. I wasn’t convinced, but agreed anyway.
That was the first few days. Since then I’ve been very productive—I’ve been making contacts like crazy. I visited my friend Scott’s in-laws, which was a great time. They were so kind and asked me to consider them family while I am here. That would have been enough, but his mother-in-law has agreed to teach me to cook Nepali food! I can make momos (little dumpling things which are fried heaven), but the ‘national’ food of Nepal—called dāl bhāt—escapes me. It doesn’t sound difficult—rice, lentils, curried vegetables, and pickle—and yet, they are quite particular about the way it should be cooked. So she is going to teach me when I return next year. I also need to learn to make chapattis, but that is for another day.
I still have quite a few things to do. I’m doing a few interviews next week, and I’m working on calling the West Bengal District archive, the National Library, and the Victoria Memorial Hall—all in Calcutta. I’d say that, over all, this has been a ridiculously productive and memorable trip. I was terrified of coming to India—I’ve spent the past 4 years focused on Nepal, and to have to change your dissertation focus COMPLETELY at the end of your second year is not necessarily advisable. I was also nervous about my health, which has yet to be even ok in Nepal. Plus, I’d never been to India and don’t speak a word of Hindi. It is close to Nepali, but not close enough to really be able to communicate effectively. Yet, I think it was really all for the best. I have found more research topics than I could have ever imagined, and will be able to continue to work here for many years to come.
That’s about it. I have only taken one roll of pictures, so will be working on getting more of them so I can eventually scan them. I only have three weeks and two days left in Darjeeling, then a week and a half in Calcutta. I just booked my hotel for the last two days. My flight leaves the 22nd at 7:30am, so I was trying to book a room at the hotel next to the airport. However, after being jerked around for the past two weeks, I discovered that the airport hotel is closed for renovations. As if they couldn’t just tell me that instead of pushing me to book elsewhere. I decided to chuck the agency suggestions and book at the Hyatt Regency. It is a little expensive, but I think totally worth it if only because they (for the room I’ve booked) give complimentary transfer to the airport. Finding a taxi at 5 am is difficult enough, but to find one that will actually show up is even more difficult. On top of that, there is no way I would be awake enough to argue about the price and so I would get ripped off anyway. One person quoted the taxi at US $40! Can you imagine! In the end, the room ends up being about $20 cheaper than the other hotels I found AND I get the ride to the airport—plus a few other things, like free breakfast, drinks in the evening, 35” flat screen TV in the room, and maybe, just maybe, a massage and facial. I really like India.
Can’t think of anything else to write. I have a sore throat right now, and so had to cancel an interview I had with a Times of India reporter since it hurts to talk! But considering the state of my health EVERY SINGLE TIME I’m in Nepal, I’ll take the sore throat. So far, a little more than a month into it, I’ve only had a little stomach upset. That was due to the cups of hot pepper they were putting in every meal. I’ve began requesting “no peppers” in my food—which translates to only three or four—and taking my twice daily dose of Pepcid AC, and I’ve been fine ever since. I think the sore throat is really a fine thing compared to dysentery, bronchitis, and all the other god-awful things that always happen to me in Nepal. But it means that I’m going to take it easy for a few days, because my last three weeks are, I’m sure, going to be a big push with the interviews.
I’ll try to keep updating as often as I can…but this is all very ordinary to me. Please let me know what you’d like to know about Darjeeling, Delhi, India, Nepal, or really anything. Either leave them on my guestbook or email me. I check my email every day, and the guestbook not quite so often, as long as the electricity hasn’t gone out. The monsoon hasn’t quite reached us yet, just like for most of the rest of India. It kind of stalled in southern India (near Goa) and in Bangladesh, so the weather has been pretty hellish through most of Northern India. Apparently Delhi was up around F 150 degrees the other day, so I’m pretty glad to be up this high. We’ve had a few days of rain in the last week—cleared out the tourists—but has been clear the past few days.
That’s pretty much it. I’m truly enjoying my time here and will be quite sad to leave. The people here are very nice, and I’ve found quite a few nice apartments that I could envision myself living in for a year or two.
Oh—my itinerary (in case you were wondering). I’ll be in Darjeeling until the morning of the 12th of July, and taking the train from here to Calcutta. I’m planning on staying with Arpita (friend and fellow graduate student at Rutgers) until the evening of the 16th, when I’ll move into another hotel. I’ll be in that hotel until the afternoon of the 20th, when I’m heading to the Hyatt. My flight leaves Friday morning and I’ll be arriving back in Indiana that evening (the 22nd). If anyone is really dying to talk to me, my phone number is (from the US): 00-98320-18286. There is no city or region code because it’s a mobile phone. I don’t expect any phone calls, but just in case!
Well, hope everyone is doing well…and I hope to have more adventures to write about in the near future!
The woman at the front desk showed me on the map where I should be going and I set off to buy a mobile phone. I started walking toward Chowrasta, which is a main square in the town; although technically it is shaped more like an X than a square. Anyway, I started walking down toward where I thought I should go. After about 20 minutes, I was convinced that I was totally lost and had ended up somewhere in China. I had descended about a thousand feet, zigzagging down the hill…once I stopped to look up, I saw my hotel. I was exactly even with my hotel, just much, much lower. I was exhausted, and a bit sweaty, and ready to call a taxi to drive me back up the hill so I could die in my hotel room. However, I decided to give my Nepali language skills a bit of a go, and went inside a store to ask where I could buy mobile phones. Luckily, the man was very nice—although he answered my Nepali question with an English answer, something I’ve had to get used to. He told me that I was, in fact, going the correct direction. I just needed to keep going down the bloody hill (two more zags, to be precise). After sweating my way down another 600 or so feet, I saw a mobile phone store.
I walked in, trying not to gasp and gag for each breath. Anyone who tells you that 7 or 8 thousand feet isn’t that high is a lying bastard and probably wants you dead. Thankfully, the man in the store was more than kind while I gasped and choked out the words, “Me…need…phone.” He smiled and asked me what kind of phone and service I needed. Although my brain was oxygen-deprived, I did manage to purchase a quality, no frills Nokia phone. He showed me one that, had I been just a bit more delirious, I would have purchased—beautiful, swanky, gadget optimized phone. I won’t go into too many details, but the cost was Rs 8500/-, which translates to about USD $200. I said, “Aie! Kasto mahango!” Which is Nepali for, “Holy crap! That’s expensive!” (well, loosely translated). He laughed and asked me if I spoke Nepali. We had a very nice conversation about my research and what I wanted to do in Darjeeling. After, he offered to walk me to the Darjeeling Language Institute, the next stop on my list. I agreed, before realizing two things: (1) Walking me there consisted of him closing the shop, and (2) it was two buildings down, just across the street. I felt like a prize idiot…but it was kind of him anyway.
The Darjeeling Language Institute (from this point forward known as the DLI because I’m too lazy to continue typing the full name) is on the first floor of a hotel. Nice little place. So the phone guy led me inside and, as luck would have it, there was a Nepali class going on at the time. We walked to the classroom and interrupted the class. There was only one student, so I didn’t feel too terrible about it. The teacher asked me to come up and sit down, and the phone guy disappeared. She asked me a few questions—if I knew any Nepali, etc.—and then asked me to talk to the girl in the class so she could assess my “skills”. We did the usual—“What is your name? Where are you from?” As it turns out, she and her husband are from Tennessee (well, she’s originally from Alabama and he’s originally from Texas) and will be living here for another three or four years. It went quickly, and she asked me to come back on Monday to talk about classes and to pay for them. I got the girl’s address, and she said she would stop by the hotel on the way home. She and her husband live fairly close to me, only about 10 minutes away.
I headed out after that to work my way back up the hill. I decided to take the “short cut” straight up the hill—consisting of stairs and two roads that are at about 45 degree angles. I made it, just barely. I was coughing, sweating, and gasping by the time I got to the top. I stumbled into the hotel, got my key, and collapsed in my room. I was convinced that I had pulmonary edema (I was coughing up things and feeling nauseated) and would die right there. I laid on that bed for over an hour and it didn’t improve. So I stayed for another hour. By that point I was sufficiently recovered enough to walk up another hill (not quite so uphill) to the internet place. That too almost killed me, but I survived to walk back down the hill.
As I arrived at the hotel, I saw the woman from class. She was leaving me a note at the desk, so I invited her up for a minute—standing at that point was beyond what was possible. Karen and I sat for a while and chatted. She is a very nice woman, and I am so glad we met! I walked her home so I would know where she lived (another hill). We sat and had tea at her house. Jonathan, her husband, had a sinus infection and so was laying down. She and I ended up talking until after dark. I’d arrived at their house around 5 pm, so that was quite a while. They walked me home (back up another bloody hill), all the while assuring me that the walking thing would get better. I wasn’t convinced, but agreed anyway.
That was the first few days. Since then I’ve been very productive—I’ve been making contacts like crazy. I visited my friend Scott’s in-laws, which was a great time. They were so kind and asked me to consider them family while I am here. That would have been enough, but his mother-in-law has agreed to teach me to cook Nepali food! I can make momos (little dumpling things which are fried heaven), but the ‘national’ food of Nepal—called dāl bhāt—escapes me. It doesn’t sound difficult—rice, lentils, curried vegetables, and pickle—and yet, they are quite particular about the way it should be cooked. So she is going to teach me when I return next year. I also need to learn to make chapattis, but that is for another day.
I still have quite a few things to do. I’m doing a few interviews next week, and I’m working on calling the West Bengal District archive, the National Library, and the Victoria Memorial Hall—all in Calcutta. I’d say that, over all, this has been a ridiculously productive and memorable trip. I was terrified of coming to India—I’ve spent the past 4 years focused on Nepal, and to have to change your dissertation focus COMPLETELY at the end of your second year is not necessarily advisable. I was also nervous about my health, which has yet to be even ok in Nepal. Plus, I’d never been to India and don’t speak a word of Hindi. It is close to Nepali, but not close enough to really be able to communicate effectively. Yet, I think it was really all for the best. I have found more research topics than I could have ever imagined, and will be able to continue to work here for many years to come.
That’s about it. I have only taken one roll of pictures, so will be working on getting more of them so I can eventually scan them. I only have three weeks and two days left in Darjeeling, then a week and a half in Calcutta. I just booked my hotel for the last two days. My flight leaves the 22nd at 7:30am, so I was trying to book a room at the hotel next to the airport. However, after being jerked around for the past two weeks, I discovered that the airport hotel is closed for renovations. As if they couldn’t just tell me that instead of pushing me to book elsewhere. I decided to chuck the agency suggestions and book at the Hyatt Regency. It is a little expensive, but I think totally worth it if only because they (for the room I’ve booked) give complimentary transfer to the airport. Finding a taxi at 5 am is difficult enough, but to find one that will actually show up is even more difficult. On top of that, there is no way I would be awake enough to argue about the price and so I would get ripped off anyway. One person quoted the taxi at US $40! Can you imagine! In the end, the room ends up being about $20 cheaper than the other hotels I found AND I get the ride to the airport—plus a few other things, like free breakfast, drinks in the evening, 35” flat screen TV in the room, and maybe, just maybe, a massage and facial. I really like India.
Can’t think of anything else to write. I have a sore throat right now, and so had to cancel an interview I had with a Times of India reporter since it hurts to talk! But considering the state of my health EVERY SINGLE TIME I’m in Nepal, I’ll take the sore throat. So far, a little more than a month into it, I’ve only had a little stomach upset. That was due to the cups of hot pepper they were putting in every meal. I’ve began requesting “no peppers” in my food—which translates to only three or four—and taking my twice daily dose of Pepcid AC, and I’ve been fine ever since. I think the sore throat is really a fine thing compared to dysentery, bronchitis, and all the other god-awful things that always happen to me in Nepal. But it means that I’m going to take it easy for a few days, because my last three weeks are, I’m sure, going to be a big push with the interviews.
I’ll try to keep updating as often as I can…but this is all very ordinary to me. Please let me know what you’d like to know about Darjeeling, Delhi, India, Nepal, or really anything. Either leave them on my guestbook or email me. I check my email every day, and the guestbook not quite so often, as long as the electricity hasn’t gone out. The monsoon hasn’t quite reached us yet, just like for most of the rest of India. It kind of stalled in southern India (near Goa) and in Bangladesh, so the weather has been pretty hellish through most of Northern India. Apparently Delhi was up around F 150 degrees the other day, so I’m pretty glad to be up this high. We’ve had a few days of rain in the last week—cleared out the tourists—but has been clear the past few days.
That’s pretty much it. I’m truly enjoying my time here and will be quite sad to leave. The people here are very nice, and I’ve found quite a few nice apartments that I could envision myself living in for a year or two.
Oh—my itinerary (in case you were wondering). I’ll be in Darjeeling until the morning of the 12th of July, and taking the train from here to Calcutta. I’m planning on staying with Arpita (friend and fellow graduate student at Rutgers) until the evening of the 16th, when I’ll move into another hotel. I’ll be in that hotel until the afternoon of the 20th, when I’m heading to the Hyatt. My flight leaves Friday morning and I’ll be arriving back in Indiana that evening (the 22nd). If anyone is really dying to talk to me, my phone number is (from the US): 00-98320-18286. There is no city or region code because it’s a mobile phone. I don’t expect any phone calls, but just in case!
Well, hope everyone is doing well…and I hope to have more adventures to write about in the near future!
Friday, June 17, 2005
Delhi--Part II
So the Oberoi:
We got out of the auto-rickshaw at a very impressive gate and walked through. The guards saluted us (something you have to get used to and not giggle every time like I do) and we started up the paved, perfectly manicured and landscaped drive. At the top of the hill sits the hotel. This amazing, gigantic, palace of a hotel. Sikh guards in matching uniforms and turbans opened the doors for us (yet another giggle) into the gigantic, marble-floored lobby. To the right was the newsstand and the entrance to the lounge area (more on that later), to the left was a hallway and the front desk. Tharpa led me, drooling, past the front desk to the French restaurant (redecorated in the last year in a minimalist style--very nice) and sushi bar. Opposite the restaurant, and to the right of the front desk, stairs descended down to the shopping floor. Gucci, Coach, various other clothing and jewelry designer shops lined the halls. LINED. We walked to the back to a shop that sells rugs from Kashmir. Tharpa wanted to show me a robe she's looked at the day before. The gentlemen who own the store are very proud to say that Richard Gere purchased one just like it (apparently good for meditation). I tried to keep the giggles to a minimum after that one. As if the man can't meditate in normal clothing--he has to have a $1,000 robe? Well, it was cashmere, lined and embroidered. So I can't hate him too much--good taste is just good taste!
Anyway, after we hung around there for a bit, we wandered over to the beauty salon. I sat and flipped though some magazines while Tharpa talked to her stylist. Nice enough place--but was never offered tea! Huh. When she finished, we decided to go up to the lounge and split a beer. So we walked back up the very impressive, overly clean, marble stairs to the lounge. The lounge is rectangular, with wooden paneling on three sides. The fourth side, next to which we sat in VERY comfortable chairs, is all glass over looking the pool. Oh yes--I said pool. A very large, very nice pool with lounge chairs surrounding it and a garden on the back. Ridiculous. So they brought us our beer (two glasses and some very spicy snacks) and we just sat and talked. I can't explain how nice this hotel is, except to say that if it was in the US--they would never let people like me past the guards at the front gate. Seriously, seriously swanky. It was about four pm and people were just starting to go out to the pool. I think the temperature had dropped to about 110 by that time, and so it was better than midday. We sat there for about an hour, talking and watching a very attractive man with an amazing breaststroke swim lazy laps. Not too shabby.
As we left, we decided to take a cab from the hotel front door rather than walk all the way down to the street and try to find an auto-rickshaw. So the very tall guard (maybe 6'5"--I'm talking TALL) called a taxi for us. I think he was a bit shocked when we told him where we were going--apparently people staying there don't often frequent the Defense Colony market. So he dropped us off and we did a bit more shopping. Headed back to the hotel to rest up a bit and shower--then we were off to dinner.
Dinner was at a restaurant called Flavours--the head chef (oh yes--I said head chef) is Italian and apparently liked India so much that he decided to say and open a few restaurants--well why not? If you have some free time, who WOULDN'T want to open a swanky Italian restaurant in Delhi. Anyhoo, we got there around 7:30 pm and sat down. There were only 5 other people in the restaurant--a couple and three tourists. So we ordered our food (Parma ham grilled pizza, caesar salad, and chocolate pudding) and just watched as the restaurant filled up quickly. Within in about 20 minutes, there was a line around the building. Great food, great atmosphere. I would absolutely recommend this place and look forward to returning. Tharpa knew a woman who used to work there (friend from Sikkim I believe), and so we got great service from her friends!
So that was my last day in Delhi. Overall, pretty successful--and I was quite well fed in preparation for Darjeeling.
I finished packing and was ready to leave for the airport at 8 am. Moses came once again to pick me up and drove me to the airport. Pretty uneventful morning--I checked in, went through security, and hung out in the lounge before my flight. Can't say the domestic terminal is that exciting--and not nearly enough seating. But I just read the newspaper until they announced my flight.
I was seated all the way in the back of the plane by the window. I sat next to two women with a very adorable baby. We took off on time (10:10 am) and flew over northern India. Very dry place this time of year. Nothing too exciting to report. The meal was ok, and most everyone got off at our first landing. I was going on to Bagdogra, so I just sat there. Once I arrived in Bagdogra, the only thing I could think of was, "Well its much greener here, but just as hot as Delhi!" The man was waiting there for me, and he helped me get my bags. A woman representing the travel agency came over to direct me to the jeep. Got to say--traveling in India is much easier with a travel agency. I recommend it--at least for the first time.
So I jumped in the jeep, only to discover that the $60 I'd paid for it (too much, by the way) was actually for the ENTIRE jeep! What a waste! My pathetic three little bags and me sitting in the back--wasting gas. Luckily, another tour guide from Darjeeling happened to be there, so he rode with me. Nice guy, and I would have loved to talk to him more. But after the first 10 minutes, my stomach started going crazy. I am NEVER carsick, but WOW the roads are not good. So I decided that rather than vomiting into my hat for the next three hours, I would sleep. I ended up missing the entire trip because of this. My stomach actually didn't improve until the day after!
So I woke up as we arrived in Darjeeling. Still bad roads, and lots of people. We drove up the hill, very up, and stopped at the top at my hotel--Hotel Silver Cascade. The staff jumped into action and carried everything I owned up to my room. That is really something I struggle getting used to--having people waiting on you! Just not my thing. Anyway, a representative of the local tourist agency was there to meet me and make sure everything was smooth. It was. I walked my wobbly self up the stairs and into the room.
My room is at the top of the stairs, the only guest room on the floor. It is smallish, but very nice. Huge bed, couch, dresser, small table (desk) tv, and attached bath with shower and toilet. The best part is the balcony. I have my own balcony over-looking the valley. The hotel is at the top of the hill, so I can look down and see just about the whole city. There is a Maharaja's palace over to the south (left of my room) and the city lays around the crest of the hill and runs down about half way down. It is very difficult to describe--so I will try to upload a picture if I can find somewhere to scan them.
As the hotel staff left my room, they asked if I would like a pot of tea. It was about 4 pm, and I really just wanted to vomit and go to bed. But I said yes. About 10 minutes later, a man appeared with tea. Not just tea, but tea in a silver tea set on a silver platter. I just feel ridiculous all the time here--it is just too nice for me. On his way out, he told me that I could order dinner downstairs and have it in my room. I've done that most evenings since. I am totally spoiled.
I spent most of the next day (Thursday) resting--the stomach wasn't really that great, and I didn't want to push it. Friday I decided to get a mobile phone since my hotel only had one phone and since I'd be calling people, libraries, and archives in Delhi, Darjeeling, and Calcutta, it would be easier that trekking down the hill to the phone stalls. There was a map of the city up in the hotel by the Darjeeling Language Institute, and the woman at the front desk gave me a copy and showed me where to purchase a phone.
ThatÂ’s all for now--I'll update again soon.
We got out of the auto-rickshaw at a very impressive gate and walked through. The guards saluted us (something you have to get used to and not giggle every time like I do) and we started up the paved, perfectly manicured and landscaped drive. At the top of the hill sits the hotel. This amazing, gigantic, palace of a hotel. Sikh guards in matching uniforms and turbans opened the doors for us (yet another giggle) into the gigantic, marble-floored lobby. To the right was the newsstand and the entrance to the lounge area (more on that later), to the left was a hallway and the front desk. Tharpa led me, drooling, past the front desk to the French restaurant (redecorated in the last year in a minimalist style--very nice) and sushi bar. Opposite the restaurant, and to the right of the front desk, stairs descended down to the shopping floor. Gucci, Coach, various other clothing and jewelry designer shops lined the halls. LINED. We walked to the back to a shop that sells rugs from Kashmir. Tharpa wanted to show me a robe she's looked at the day before. The gentlemen who own the store are very proud to say that Richard Gere purchased one just like it (apparently good for meditation). I tried to keep the giggles to a minimum after that one. As if the man can't meditate in normal clothing--he has to have a $1,000 robe? Well, it was cashmere, lined and embroidered. So I can't hate him too much--good taste is just good taste!
Anyway, after we hung around there for a bit, we wandered over to the beauty salon. I sat and flipped though some magazines while Tharpa talked to her stylist. Nice enough place--but was never offered tea! Huh. When she finished, we decided to go up to the lounge and split a beer. So we walked back up the very impressive, overly clean, marble stairs to the lounge. The lounge is rectangular, with wooden paneling on three sides. The fourth side, next to which we sat in VERY comfortable chairs, is all glass over looking the pool. Oh yes--I said pool. A very large, very nice pool with lounge chairs surrounding it and a garden on the back. Ridiculous. So they brought us our beer (two glasses and some very spicy snacks) and we just sat and talked. I can't explain how nice this hotel is, except to say that if it was in the US--they would never let people like me past the guards at the front gate. Seriously, seriously swanky. It was about four pm and people were just starting to go out to the pool. I think the temperature had dropped to about 110 by that time, and so it was better than midday. We sat there for about an hour, talking and watching a very attractive man with an amazing breaststroke swim lazy laps. Not too shabby.
As we left, we decided to take a cab from the hotel front door rather than walk all the way down to the street and try to find an auto-rickshaw. So the very tall guard (maybe 6'5"--I'm talking TALL) called a taxi for us. I think he was a bit shocked when we told him where we were going--apparently people staying there don't often frequent the Defense Colony market. So he dropped us off and we did a bit more shopping. Headed back to the hotel to rest up a bit and shower--then we were off to dinner.
Dinner was at a restaurant called Flavours--the head chef (oh yes--I said head chef) is Italian and apparently liked India so much that he decided to say and open a few restaurants--well why not? If you have some free time, who WOULDN'T want to open a swanky Italian restaurant in Delhi. Anyhoo, we got there around 7:30 pm and sat down. There were only 5 other people in the restaurant--a couple and three tourists. So we ordered our food (Parma ham grilled pizza, caesar salad, and chocolate pudding) and just watched as the restaurant filled up quickly. Within in about 20 minutes, there was a line around the building. Great food, great atmosphere. I would absolutely recommend this place and look forward to returning. Tharpa knew a woman who used to work there (friend from Sikkim I believe), and so we got great service from her friends!
So that was my last day in Delhi. Overall, pretty successful--and I was quite well fed in preparation for Darjeeling.
I finished packing and was ready to leave for the airport at 8 am. Moses came once again to pick me up and drove me to the airport. Pretty uneventful morning--I checked in, went through security, and hung out in the lounge before my flight. Can't say the domestic terminal is that exciting--and not nearly enough seating. But I just read the newspaper until they announced my flight.
I was seated all the way in the back of the plane by the window. I sat next to two women with a very adorable baby. We took off on time (10:10 am) and flew over northern India. Very dry place this time of year. Nothing too exciting to report. The meal was ok, and most everyone got off at our first landing. I was going on to Bagdogra, so I just sat there. Once I arrived in Bagdogra, the only thing I could think of was, "Well its much greener here, but just as hot as Delhi!" The man was waiting there for me, and he helped me get my bags. A woman representing the travel agency came over to direct me to the jeep. Got to say--traveling in India is much easier with a travel agency. I recommend it--at least for the first time.
So I jumped in the jeep, only to discover that the $60 I'd paid for it (too much, by the way) was actually for the ENTIRE jeep! What a waste! My pathetic three little bags and me sitting in the back--wasting gas. Luckily, another tour guide from Darjeeling happened to be there, so he rode with me. Nice guy, and I would have loved to talk to him more. But after the first 10 minutes, my stomach started going crazy. I am NEVER carsick, but WOW the roads are not good. So I decided that rather than vomiting into my hat for the next three hours, I would sleep. I ended up missing the entire trip because of this. My stomach actually didn't improve until the day after!
So I woke up as we arrived in Darjeeling. Still bad roads, and lots of people. We drove up the hill, very up, and stopped at the top at my hotel--Hotel Silver Cascade. The staff jumped into action and carried everything I owned up to my room. That is really something I struggle getting used to--having people waiting on you! Just not my thing. Anyway, a representative of the local tourist agency was there to meet me and make sure everything was smooth. It was. I walked my wobbly self up the stairs and into the room.
My room is at the top of the stairs, the only guest room on the floor. It is smallish, but very nice. Huge bed, couch, dresser, small table (desk) tv, and attached bath with shower and toilet. The best part is the balcony. I have my own balcony over-looking the valley. The hotel is at the top of the hill, so I can look down and see just about the whole city. There is a Maharaja's palace over to the south (left of my room) and the city lays around the crest of the hill and runs down about half way down. It is very difficult to describe--so I will try to upload a picture if I can find somewhere to scan them.
As the hotel staff left my room, they asked if I would like a pot of tea. It was about 4 pm, and I really just wanted to vomit and go to bed. But I said yes. About 10 minutes later, a man appeared with tea. Not just tea, but tea in a silver tea set on a silver platter. I just feel ridiculous all the time here--it is just too nice for me. On his way out, he told me that I could order dinner downstairs and have it in my room. I've done that most evenings since. I am totally spoiled.
I spent most of the next day (Thursday) resting--the stomach wasn't really that great, and I didn't want to push it. Friday I decided to get a mobile phone since my hotel only had one phone and since I'd be calling people, libraries, and archives in Delhi, Darjeeling, and Calcutta, it would be easier that trekking down the hill to the phone stalls. There was a map of the city up in the hotel by the Darjeeling Language Institute, and the woman at the front desk gave me a copy and showed me where to purchase a phone.
ThatÂ’s all for now--I'll update again soon.
Thursday, June 16, 2005
I meant to post this days ago...but the rains have been pretty killer and the electricity was knocked out for a few days to the internet cafe. But here goes..updates since the first few days of Delhi.
The Monday after I arrived was Buddha’s birthday, therefore a national holiday. Meaning for me that the archive and embassy were closed. Grrrr. So hung out most of that day, and called Moses about Tuesday. I was leaving Wednesday and didn’t have a great deal of time to hang around waiting for taxis. Tharpa (a friend I’d met at the guest house—she worked up in Sikkim, which is very near Darjeeling) decided to come with me around, and so we were picked up at around 8:30 am. I had decided to try the archive straight away, rather than driving to the American Embassy’s Cultural affairs office to get my THIRD letter of recommendation. Seriously, my research is of nothing sensitive, important, or (frankly) that interesting to anyone but me. I assumed that two letters from my University (advisor and graduate director) and a letter from the AIIS (American Institute of Indian Studies) would suffice. I was wrong.
We arrived at the National Archives of India—very impressive building with a huge courtyard and drive way from the gate house to the entrance of the building. The guards (about 5 of them) stopped our car and said that I had to go through the gate house to get access. So walked in and the small man (not stature, but status) growled at me to give him my letters of recommendation or he wouldn’t let me in. I, very coolly, said “One moment please,” and produced them promptly. I think he really, really wanted to tell me to shove off (you know, power trip of the bored and lame). But he took one look at the envelopes they were in and gave me a pass to get in. They wouldn’t let Tharpa in, only one person. So walked in and wandered into the first office I saw. I’m not convinced that it was the correct one…but whatever. The man at the desk asked me to sit down, and explained that there was no way they would let me have access to the archive without a letter from the embassy’s Cultural Affairs Office. I argued with him for a minute—gently of course, by explaining that I didn’t actually NEED access at that moment. I just needed someone to write a letter stating that they would allow me access in the future. No. No. NO. Fine. Great, grand, wonderful. Not only that…but he told me that I should really get back within the hour, otherwise I would have to wait a few days. I don’t actually understand that logic (I now believe that the actual person I needed to speak to was coming in and he wanted to make sure that I only went through him!). So I had to walk all the way back outside, find the car. Find Tharpa (who was making great friends with the guards—they were even bringing her tea). And head out to the U.S. Embassy Cultural Affairs Office. Everything was closed on Monday, and I had been basically incoherent on Friday (I’d arrived at the airport at 1 am Friday morning) so I hadn’t gotten all the details from the office about what I needed…only a name.
So we arrived, and the security was impressive. More than any other building in Delhi, I think. Tharpa had to give up her mobile phone and camera at the door…I had nothing but papers, so I was ok. The woman at the front desk called up to the woman in the office. We waited in the lobby for about 5 minutes, and this woman appeared. She asked me to sit down and explain my situation. I gave her my letters of recommendation and a copy of my research proposal (which I has only thrown in my bag at the last minute—it was my only copy!). I explained to her what my project was about and my situation. She said that she would give my packet to her boss and would call me when he finished the letters. I said, “Oh…didn’t I mention that I am leaving tomorrow morning?” She told me that her boss, understandably, doesn’t like to have things shoved under his nose to be immediately signed—and so she asked me if they could send them to me. I’m thinking—what the hell do I need with these letters once I get to Darjeeling? This means that I would have to return to Delhi sometime this summer (more money blown) just to pick up these blasted letters, give them to the archive, and then leave the same day? Come on? Do I really need to go to this archive that badly? Ok—I do need this archive that badly. So I agreed. I started to give her the address of the hotel in Darjeeling—but I didn’t have the full address. She looked at me—do I detect a bit of pity?—and asked Tharpa and I to wait there for a few minutes. I’m thinking “great. This is how my research begins? What kind of anthropologist doesn’t have the address of where they are staying at every point in the trip. I suck.” Tharpa and I talk for a few minutes, and then the woman appears…with an entire folder of things. She had, in about 15 minutes, convinced her boss to sign the letter for not only the National Archives, but the Archaeological Survey of India, made extra copies of my research proposal, extra copies of my letters of recommendation, and extra copies of the letters from her boss!!!!! I nearly kissed her. She fixed my world in about 15 minutes! And made sure that I had her phone number in case I needed another letter (which I did, this week—but I will get to that later).
So we were on our way! We found Moses, drove BACK to the archives, and went back inside to that same office. He wasn’t there…but two guys playing on his computer were. I explained, again, what I needed and they asked me to sit on the strange, uncomfortable couch in the office. Fine. They disappeared. Fine. And an angel appeared—the assistant archivist! She asked me to follow her to the archives (where I was…I will only discover when I return here next year) and explain to her what I needed. So we did, and I did. Then the main archivist showed up. She passed me to him…and he told me that he couldn’t write a letter. Oh. How very disappointing. Then he says, “What if I just give you access to the archive? How long? Is one year enough?” WHAT!!! You can just do that?? Even if I’m not going to be around for another year? WHAT!!!! I asked if I could have access for two years—“Since I’m not going to be returning for a year.” He says, “Of course! Please fill out this form.” The form was about 10 lines…he stamped it…and I was done! I made sure to get his full name and title to quote in my grant proposals—But I have research access to the National Archives in India until May 2007! Good stuff. The entire transaction took a total of about 10 minutes. He then let me into the archives to let me begin! Unfortunately, I had other errands to do AND get back to pack. But I do have a bit of an idea what the place looks like, and he did explain the set up and procedures.
I went back outside to get Tharpa, we picked up my ticket and hotel information, changed money, and then had Moses drop us off at a coffee shop on Janpath. Tharpa and I had a bit of lunch and cooled off in the air conditioning (it was about 120 at that point) before we walked down Janpath to do a bit of end of trip shopping. At the end of the road is a McDonalds—so I just HAD to order French fries and an orange soda. Sat in the air conditioning, with my fries and soda. Brilliant! Absolutely BRILLIANT!!! I love Delhi.
We decided to catch an auto-rickshaw back to the hotel…and on the way, Tharpa asked me if I would mind if we stopped off at the Oberoi. She’d had her hair done their a few days before, and wanted to know what the man had used because in the heat and humidity had not changed her style (her hair is curly like mine and it had stayed straight for two days). So I agreed. I am so glad we did. But that will have to wait for another day…
The Monday after I arrived was Buddha’s birthday, therefore a national holiday. Meaning for me that the archive and embassy were closed. Grrrr. So hung out most of that day, and called Moses about Tuesday. I was leaving Wednesday and didn’t have a great deal of time to hang around waiting for taxis. Tharpa (a friend I’d met at the guest house—she worked up in Sikkim, which is very near Darjeeling) decided to come with me around, and so we were picked up at around 8:30 am. I had decided to try the archive straight away, rather than driving to the American Embassy’s Cultural affairs office to get my THIRD letter of recommendation. Seriously, my research is of nothing sensitive, important, or (frankly) that interesting to anyone but me. I assumed that two letters from my University (advisor and graduate director) and a letter from the AIIS (American Institute of Indian Studies) would suffice. I was wrong.
We arrived at the National Archives of India—very impressive building with a huge courtyard and drive way from the gate house to the entrance of the building. The guards (about 5 of them) stopped our car and said that I had to go through the gate house to get access. So walked in and the small man (not stature, but status) growled at me to give him my letters of recommendation or he wouldn’t let me in. I, very coolly, said “One moment please,” and produced them promptly. I think he really, really wanted to tell me to shove off (you know, power trip of the bored and lame). But he took one look at the envelopes they were in and gave me a pass to get in. They wouldn’t let Tharpa in, only one person. So walked in and wandered into the first office I saw. I’m not convinced that it was the correct one…but whatever. The man at the desk asked me to sit down, and explained that there was no way they would let me have access to the archive without a letter from the embassy’s Cultural Affairs Office. I argued with him for a minute—gently of course, by explaining that I didn’t actually NEED access at that moment. I just needed someone to write a letter stating that they would allow me access in the future. No. No. NO. Fine. Great, grand, wonderful. Not only that…but he told me that I should really get back within the hour, otherwise I would have to wait a few days. I don’t actually understand that logic (I now believe that the actual person I needed to speak to was coming in and he wanted to make sure that I only went through him!). So I had to walk all the way back outside, find the car. Find Tharpa (who was making great friends with the guards—they were even bringing her tea). And head out to the U.S. Embassy Cultural Affairs Office. Everything was closed on Monday, and I had been basically incoherent on Friday (I’d arrived at the airport at 1 am Friday morning) so I hadn’t gotten all the details from the office about what I needed…only a name.
So we arrived, and the security was impressive. More than any other building in Delhi, I think. Tharpa had to give up her mobile phone and camera at the door…I had nothing but papers, so I was ok. The woman at the front desk called up to the woman in the office. We waited in the lobby for about 5 minutes, and this woman appeared. She asked me to sit down and explain my situation. I gave her my letters of recommendation and a copy of my research proposal (which I has only thrown in my bag at the last minute—it was my only copy!). I explained to her what my project was about and my situation. She said that she would give my packet to her boss and would call me when he finished the letters. I said, “Oh…didn’t I mention that I am leaving tomorrow morning?” She told me that her boss, understandably, doesn’t like to have things shoved under his nose to be immediately signed—and so she asked me if they could send them to me. I’m thinking—what the hell do I need with these letters once I get to Darjeeling? This means that I would have to return to Delhi sometime this summer (more money blown) just to pick up these blasted letters, give them to the archive, and then leave the same day? Come on? Do I really need to go to this archive that badly? Ok—I do need this archive that badly. So I agreed. I started to give her the address of the hotel in Darjeeling—but I didn’t have the full address. She looked at me—do I detect a bit of pity?—and asked Tharpa and I to wait there for a few minutes. I’m thinking “great. This is how my research begins? What kind of anthropologist doesn’t have the address of where they are staying at every point in the trip. I suck.” Tharpa and I talk for a few minutes, and then the woman appears…with an entire folder of things. She had, in about 15 minutes, convinced her boss to sign the letter for not only the National Archives, but the Archaeological Survey of India, made extra copies of my research proposal, extra copies of my letters of recommendation, and extra copies of the letters from her boss!!!!! I nearly kissed her. She fixed my world in about 15 minutes! And made sure that I had her phone number in case I needed another letter (which I did, this week—but I will get to that later).
So we were on our way! We found Moses, drove BACK to the archives, and went back inside to that same office. He wasn’t there…but two guys playing on his computer were. I explained, again, what I needed and they asked me to sit on the strange, uncomfortable couch in the office. Fine. They disappeared. Fine. And an angel appeared—the assistant archivist! She asked me to follow her to the archives (where I was…I will only discover when I return here next year) and explain to her what I needed. So we did, and I did. Then the main archivist showed up. She passed me to him…and he told me that he couldn’t write a letter. Oh. How very disappointing. Then he says, “What if I just give you access to the archive? How long? Is one year enough?” WHAT!!! You can just do that?? Even if I’m not going to be around for another year? WHAT!!!! I asked if I could have access for two years—“Since I’m not going to be returning for a year.” He says, “Of course! Please fill out this form.” The form was about 10 lines…he stamped it…and I was done! I made sure to get his full name and title to quote in my grant proposals—But I have research access to the National Archives in India until May 2007! Good stuff. The entire transaction took a total of about 10 minutes. He then let me into the archives to let me begin! Unfortunately, I had other errands to do AND get back to pack. But I do have a bit of an idea what the place looks like, and he did explain the set up and procedures.
I went back outside to get Tharpa, we picked up my ticket and hotel information, changed money, and then had Moses drop us off at a coffee shop on Janpath. Tharpa and I had a bit of lunch and cooled off in the air conditioning (it was about 120 at that point) before we walked down Janpath to do a bit of end of trip shopping. At the end of the road is a McDonalds—so I just HAD to order French fries and an orange soda. Sat in the air conditioning, with my fries and soda. Brilliant! Absolutely BRILLIANT!!! I love Delhi.
We decided to catch an auto-rickshaw back to the hotel…and on the way, Tharpa asked me if I would mind if we stopped off at the Oberoi. She’d had her hair done their a few days before, and wanted to know what the man had used because in the heat and humidity had not changed her style (her hair is curly like mine and it had stayed straight for two days). So I agreed. I am so glad we did. But that will have to wait for another day…
Sunday, June 12, 2005
Sorry
To all that have sent me messages asking for updates--I'm sorry! I have been terribly busy here in Darjeeling and so haven't had time to update. However, I will be doing so soon. In the meantime, rest assured that everything is going well. Better than I could have ever expected! I have no doubts that this is the place for me.
You WILL be seeing more updates!
Chelsea
You WILL be seeing more updates!
Chelsea
Thursday, May 26, 2005
Update--Part I
My apologies for not posting in such a long time (especially to you dad!). It has been a crazy couple of weeks, and I will try to fill in all the gaps.
I left for Delhi on May 18th, traveling through London. I had expected (and been told) that I could shower at Heathrow but alas, that was not the case. I can’t tell you how disappointed I was…but, life goes on! The trip was uneventful, and I arrived in Delhi at 11pm local time on the 19th. A lovely man named Moses picked me up and drove me to the guesthouse in Defense Colony (for those with maps). We couldn’t get into the neighborhood because all of the gates were closed, so we ended up driving around for an extra 25 minutes trying to find one that way open. Great for security, unless you are the one that wants to get in! So we finally found the place, and I went upstairs and crashed.
The AIIS guesthouse is great. Air conditioning, an amazing cook (Ashok) who can make just about anything in the world, and huge rooms with private baths. Just what I needed for my first few days. I didn’t do much the first day…just met other graduate students staying at the guesthouse. Really great people.
Saturday, another guest and I (a great woman working for a university in Gangtok, Sikkim) decided to go out for a bit of shopping. I’m sure those of you that know me well are not surprised that I am willing to brave temperatures of upwards of 115 to shop. We went to Janpath, and I didn’t buy a thing. I know, I know—you are thinking that I am sick. But it was just good judgment and possibly a sign of maturity? To get out of the heat, my friend and I ducked into a Barista, which is basically Starbucks, only better. Not only are the drinks amazing, but they have WIRELESS INERNET!!!!! I couldn’t believe it. That was nearly enough for me to change my research site to Delhi.
Sunday was the shopping day...so much for maturity! Fab India is my new favorite place in the world (thanks Arpita!) and will be my downfall. I purchased three shirts and a leather bag that is heaven. Really and truly heaven. I can’t even talk about it…I just get too emotional. Next door, two pairs of shoes. Next we had lunch at maybe the nicest restaurant I’ve ever been allowed inside (well, until Tuesday…but that is for a later post). I had a roasted tomato soup with fresh pesto and basil.
Well, I’ll have to give the rest of the details tomorrow. Must actually do some work today. For those that worry, please don’t--I am ok…working toward good even. And there are only fifty-odd days until I return. Wait, that means a great deal of research. Going now!
See you soon.
I left for Delhi on May 18th, traveling through London. I had expected (and been told) that I could shower at Heathrow but alas, that was not the case. I can’t tell you how disappointed I was…but, life goes on! The trip was uneventful, and I arrived in Delhi at 11pm local time on the 19th. A lovely man named Moses picked me up and drove me to the guesthouse in Defense Colony (for those with maps). We couldn’t get into the neighborhood because all of the gates were closed, so we ended up driving around for an extra 25 minutes trying to find one that way open. Great for security, unless you are the one that wants to get in! So we finally found the place, and I went upstairs and crashed.
The AIIS guesthouse is great. Air conditioning, an amazing cook (Ashok) who can make just about anything in the world, and huge rooms with private baths. Just what I needed for my first few days. I didn’t do much the first day…just met other graduate students staying at the guesthouse. Really great people.
Saturday, another guest and I (a great woman working for a university in Gangtok, Sikkim) decided to go out for a bit of shopping. I’m sure those of you that know me well are not surprised that I am willing to brave temperatures of upwards of 115 to shop. We went to Janpath, and I didn’t buy a thing. I know, I know—you are thinking that I am sick. But it was just good judgment and possibly a sign of maturity? To get out of the heat, my friend and I ducked into a Barista, which is basically Starbucks, only better. Not only are the drinks amazing, but they have WIRELESS INERNET!!!!! I couldn’t believe it. That was nearly enough for me to change my research site to Delhi.
Sunday was the shopping day...so much for maturity! Fab India is my new favorite place in the world (thanks Arpita!) and will be my downfall. I purchased three shirts and a leather bag that is heaven. Really and truly heaven. I can’t even talk about it…I just get too emotional. Next door, two pairs of shoes. Next we had lunch at maybe the nicest restaurant I’ve ever been allowed inside (well, until Tuesday…but that is for a later post). I had a roasted tomato soup with fresh pesto and basil.
Well, I’ll have to give the rest of the details tomorrow. Must actually do some work today. For those that worry, please don’t--I am ok…working toward good even. And there are only fifty-odd days until I return. Wait, that means a great deal of research. Going now!
See you soon.
Saturday, April 23, 2005
I may not be going to Calcutta when I expected. My friend working in Delhi may havet to come back to the US in late May, so I am thinking about not going until the 17th of July. I would have the same amount of time in Darjeeling, just at different times. I've been getting great help on my AIIS (American Institute of Indian Studies) proposal, so I'm hopeful that I'll be able to submit a decent application.
The semester is winding down, so I won't be writing much until May 6th--the last paper of the semester is due that day. So stay tuned...I'll be back!
I've also posted new pictures on my photo page. Republican national convention, some from Nepal during my stay in Peace Corps, and those from my trip to Kathmandu in December and January.
The semester is winding down, so I won't be writing much until May 6th--the last paper of the semester is due that day. So stay tuned...I'll be back!
I've also posted new pictures on my photo page. Republican national convention, some from Nepal during my stay in Peace Corps, and those from my trip to Kathmandu in December and January.
Sunday, April 17, 2005
I just (as of 1 minute ago) purchased my ticket for Delhi. I got a great price on airgorilla.com that had everything I wanted. On my last trip to Nepal (dec 2004 to jan 2005), I had two stops between Newark and Kathmandu--including a 16-hour layover--and four on the way back. So this trip only has a stop in London for 3 hours on the way there and back. Good stuff.
While I was looking up info on Delhi, I found this on the lonely planet website:
"Delhi's bus system is for thrillseekers, anthropologists, and those with time on their hands. Buses are generally hopelessly crowded and driven my maniacs. Avoid them altogether during rush hours; otherwise, try boarding or leaving at the beginning or end of a route because there's more chance of a seat and less chance of being trampled to death."
And people wonder why I'm an anthropologist!
While I was looking up info on Delhi, I found this on the lonely planet website:
"Delhi's bus system is for thrillseekers, anthropologists, and those with time on their hands. Buses are generally hopelessly crowded and driven my maniacs. Avoid them altogether during rush hours; otherwise, try boarding or leaving at the beginning or end of a route because there's more chance of a seat and less chance of being trampled to death."
And people wonder why I'm an anthropologist!
Saturday, April 16, 2005
The Beginning?
So this is my first posting. I am totally new to this whole blog thing and not very techno-savvy. I have always considered myself to be much more of a pen-and-ink kind of girl. But times change.
About me. I am originally from Fort Wayne, Indiana (Carroll High School 1997, for those from the area). I attended Ball State University from 1997 to 2001 where I majored in Anthropology and Classics. After undergrad, I joined Peace Corps Nepal (N194) for a brief time, shortened by the amazing number and variety of diseases I contracted and the amount of weight lost. So after coming back to the US, I came to Rutgers University to begin my Ph.D. in anthropology.
I came to graduate school with one goal: study 'development' in Nepal. I love that country...it tried to kill me with intestinal diseases, but I love it. More specifically, I love myself there--more on that later. But due to the political situation and my changing research topic, I can not return for now. I was not terribly happy about it since during my latest trip, winter of 2004-5, I met some amazing people--you know who you are! So in the mean time, and to finish my degree, I've decided to study in Darjeeling and Delhi among Nepali speakers--also more on that later.
This blog has two purposes: first, to help me keep in contact with my friends and family while I am in 'the field'. I always feel like I lose touch with so many people when I leave. More importantly, I cannot share my experiences with them in a meaningful way. This is my attempt at meaning.
The second purpose is more related to my work. The whole 'field work' thing has always been such a mystery to me. I have been studying anthropology since 1997 (8 years) and I still am completely in the dark about what goes on. I hear stories from friends, graduate students, and texts. I see other graduate student's pictures. But I want more of the daily stories...the things no one thinks, or wants to tell. So this is my story. Feel free to add to the pieces. Anyone. Maybe I'll turn this into a book someday. Maybe not. Either way...welcome to my insanity.
About me. I am originally from Fort Wayne, Indiana (Carroll High School 1997, for those from the area). I attended Ball State University from 1997 to 2001 where I majored in Anthropology and Classics. After undergrad, I joined Peace Corps Nepal (N194) for a brief time, shortened by the amazing number and variety of diseases I contracted and the amount of weight lost. So after coming back to the US, I came to Rutgers University to begin my Ph.D. in anthropology.
I came to graduate school with one goal: study 'development' in Nepal. I love that country...it tried to kill me with intestinal diseases, but I love it. More specifically, I love myself there--more on that later. But due to the political situation and my changing research topic, I can not return for now. I was not terribly happy about it since during my latest trip, winter of 2004-5, I met some amazing people--you know who you are! So in the mean time, and to finish my degree, I've decided to study in Darjeeling and Delhi among Nepali speakers--also more on that later.
This blog has two purposes: first, to help me keep in contact with my friends and family while I am in 'the field'. I always feel like I lose touch with so many people when I leave. More importantly, I cannot share my experiences with them in a meaningful way. This is my attempt at meaning.
The second purpose is more related to my work. The whole 'field work' thing has always been such a mystery to me. I have been studying anthropology since 1997 (8 years) and I still am completely in the dark about what goes on. I hear stories from friends, graduate students, and texts. I see other graduate student's pictures. But I want more of the daily stories...the things no one thinks, or wants to tell. So this is my story. Feel free to add to the pieces. Anyone. Maybe I'll turn this into a book someday. Maybe not. Either way...welcome to my insanity.
Friday, April 08, 2005
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