Friday, June 17, 2005

Delhi--Part II

So the Oberoi:

We got out of the auto-rickshaw at a very impressive gate and walked through. The guards saluted us (something you have to get used to and not giggle every time like I do) and we started up the paved, perfectly manicured and landscaped drive. At the top of the hill sits the hotel. This amazing, gigantic, palace of a hotel. Sikh guards in matching uniforms and turbans opened the doors for us (yet another giggle) into the gigantic, marble-floored lobby. To the right was the newsstand and the entrance to the lounge area (more on that later), to the left was a hallway and the front desk. Tharpa led me, drooling, past the front desk to the French restaurant (redecorated in the last year in a minimalist style--very nice) and sushi bar. Opposite the restaurant, and to the right of the front desk, stairs descended down to the shopping floor. Gucci, Coach, various other clothing and jewelry designer shops lined the halls. LINED. We walked to the back to a shop that sells rugs from Kashmir. Tharpa wanted to show me a robe she's looked at the day before. The gentlemen who own the store are very proud to say that Richard Gere purchased one just like it (apparently good for meditation). I tried to keep the giggles to a minimum after that one. As if the man can't meditate in normal clothing--he has to have a $1,000 robe? Well, it was cashmere, lined and embroidered. So I can't hate him too much--good taste is just good taste!

Anyway, after we hung around there for a bit, we wandered over to the beauty salon. I sat and flipped though some magazines while Tharpa talked to her stylist. Nice enough place--but was never offered tea! Huh. When she finished, we decided to go up to the lounge and split a beer. So we walked back up the very impressive, overly clean, marble stairs to the lounge. The lounge is rectangular, with wooden paneling on three sides. The fourth side, next to which we sat in VERY comfortable chairs, is all glass over looking the pool. Oh yes--I said pool. A very large, very nice pool with lounge chairs surrounding it and a garden on the back. Ridiculous. So they brought us our beer (two glasses and some very spicy snacks) and we just sat and talked. I can't explain how nice this hotel is, except to say that if it was in the US--they would never let people like me past the guards at the front gate. Seriously, seriously swanky. It was about four pm and people were just starting to go out to the pool. I think the temperature had dropped to about 110 by that time, and so it was better than midday. We sat there for about an hour, talking and watching a very attractive man with an amazing breaststroke swim lazy laps. Not too shabby.

As we left, we decided to take a cab from the hotel front door rather than walk all the way down to the street and try to find an auto-rickshaw. So the very tall guard (maybe 6'5"--I'm talking TALL) called a taxi for us. I think he was a bit shocked when we told him where we were going--apparently people staying there don't often frequent the Defense Colony market. So he dropped us off and we did a bit more shopping. Headed back to the hotel to rest up a bit and shower--then we were off to dinner.

Dinner was at a restaurant called Flavours--the head chef (oh yes--I said head chef) is Italian and apparently liked India so much that he decided to say and open a few restaurants--well why not? If you have some free time, who WOULDN'T want to open a swanky Italian restaurant in Delhi. Anyhoo, we got there around 7:30 pm and sat down. There were only 5 other people in the restaurant--a couple and three tourists. So we ordered our food (Parma ham grilled pizza, caesar salad, and chocolate pudding) and just watched as the restaurant filled up quickly. Within in about 20 minutes, there was a line around the building. Great food, great atmosphere. I would absolutely recommend this place and look forward to returning. Tharpa knew a woman who used to work there (friend from Sikkim I believe), and so we got great service from her friends!

So that was my last day in Delhi. Overall, pretty successful--and I was quite well fed in preparation for Darjeeling.

I finished packing and was ready to leave for the airport at 8 am. Moses came once again to pick me up and drove me to the airport. Pretty uneventful morning--I checked in, went through security, and hung out in the lounge before my flight. Can't say the domestic terminal is that exciting--and not nearly enough seating. But I just read the newspaper until they announced my flight.

I was seated all the way in the back of the plane by the window. I sat next to two women with a very adorable baby. We took off on time (10:10 am) and flew over northern India. Very dry place this time of year. Nothing too exciting to report. The meal was ok, and most everyone got off at our first landing. I was going on to Bagdogra, so I just sat there. Once I arrived in Bagdogra, the only thing I could think of was, "Well its much greener here, but just as hot as Delhi!" The man was waiting there for me, and he helped me get my bags. A woman representing the travel agency came over to direct me to the jeep. Got to say--traveling in India is much easier with a travel agency. I recommend it--at least for the first time.

So I jumped in the jeep, only to discover that the $60 I'd paid for it (too much, by the way) was actually for the ENTIRE jeep! What a waste! My pathetic three little bags and me sitting in the back--wasting gas. Luckily, another tour guide from Darjeeling happened to be there, so he rode with me. Nice guy, and I would have loved to talk to him more. But after the first 10 minutes, my stomach started going crazy. I am NEVER carsick, but WOW the roads are not good. So I decided that rather than vomiting into my hat for the next three hours, I would sleep. I ended up missing the entire trip because of this. My stomach actually didn't improve until the day after!

So I woke up as we arrived in Darjeeling. Still bad roads, and lots of people. We drove up the hill, very up, and stopped at the top at my hotel--Hotel Silver Cascade. The staff jumped into action and carried everything I owned up to my room. That is really something I struggle getting used to--having people waiting on you! Just not my thing. Anyway, a representative of the local tourist agency was there to meet me and make sure everything was smooth. It was. I walked my wobbly self up the stairs and into the room.

My room is at the top of the stairs, the only guest room on the floor. It is smallish, but very nice. Huge bed, couch, dresser, small table (desk) tv, and attached bath with shower and toilet. The best part is the balcony. I have my own balcony over-looking the valley. The hotel is at the top of the hill, so I can look down and see just about the whole city. There is a Maharaja's palace over to the south (left of my room) and the city lays around the crest of the hill and runs down about half way down. It is very difficult to describe--so I will try to upload a picture if I can find somewhere to scan them.

As the hotel staff left my room, they asked if I would like a pot of tea. It was about 4 pm, and I really just wanted to vomit and go to bed. But I said yes. About 10 minutes later, a man appeared with tea. Not just tea, but tea in a silver tea set on a silver platter. I just feel ridiculous all the time here--it is just too nice for me. On his way out, he told me that I could order dinner downstairs and have it in my room. I've done that most evenings since. I am totally spoiled.

I spent most of the next day (Thursday) resting--the stomach wasn't really that great, and I didn't want to push it. Friday I decided to get a mobile phone since my hotel only had one phone and since I'd be calling people, libraries, and archives in Delhi, Darjeeling, and Calcutta, it would be easier that trekking down the hill to the phone stalls. There was a map of the city up in the hotel by the Darjeeling Language Institute, and the woman at the front desk gave me a copy and showed me where to purchase a phone.

ThatÂ’s all for now--I'll update again soon.

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